Walkers step back into history on trek to the 'Glen o' Weeping'
WE'VE had cold weather this week. Temperatures have fallen to minus 3.9C in Lochaber; the lowest ever reading for late May and there has been a fair covering of snow in Glencoe.
A group of us were over in that area a fortnight since and though the temperatures were far from being those of high summer there was plenty of sunshine and no rain. We were to be walking into the Lost Valley.
As you motor westwards through Glencoe to your left lie three rugged mountains known as the Three Sisters; Aonach Dubh, Gearr Aonach and Beinn Fhada. Between the latter two lies the narrow, steep and rocky path which leads to Coire Gabhail. We set off in ideal walking weather.
Not far into the walk, for a hundred yards or so and to your left, the ground drops sheer away into a deep ravine. We had to negotiate this path in single file. We don't often come across scrambling on our hillwalks which is just as well because in such situations I'm overtaken by vertigo. It's been a lifelong thing and so it was on this occasion.
Shortly after our coffee break I felt the need to recover the equilibrium so I sat in the sunshine on a grassy knoll and in the shelter of some rocks leaving my companions to go on and collect me on the way back.
There was always something going on in this awesome setting. I fed with crumbs a pair of meadow pipits hopping around my feet and observed the many others hikers negotiating the nearby mountain burn.
This is a popular trek especially at weekends and my companions reported that the views when they reached the corrie were stunning. The bottom of the valley is, apparently, remarkably flat and grassy. Returning, and oddly, the downward path seemed less daunting.
What I find really remarkable is that the Lost Valley is where the Macdonalds were supposed to have hidden their cattle against the attention of rustlers. How on earth did they get their beasts up here in the first place?
I've walked in Glencoe before. The rugged peaks and glens, gouged out by the ice, and its associations with tragedy make it very atmospheric. My grandfather was of the Macdonald Clan and came from Argyll so I learned of the Massacre at an early stage.
In all 38 men were murdered in their homes and women and children died in the surrounding hills after their dwellings were burned.
The message came to Capt. Robert Campbell of Glenlyon. On 12 February 1692 he was ordered to "Fall upon the rebels, the Macdonalds of Glencoe, and put all to the sword under 70… you are to secure all the avenues that no man escape: this you are to put in Execution at five of the clock precisely… This by the King's Special Command, for the good and safety of the country that these miscreants may be cut off root and branch…(Signed) Robert Duncanson (Major) for Their Majesties Service."
Glencoe became known thereafter as the Glen o' Weeping. Returning to the vehicles I heard the first cuckoo of the year. (OS Landranger Sheet 41).
Back in Brechin the next day the Monday Walkers were up at Dalbrack in Glenesk on a ramble to the Clash of Wirren. It was one of those dreich days when the fine mist prompted you to don waterproofs.
The track we were on was the Priest's Road eventually leading over to Lethnot. It has been well troddenover the centuries.
Harvesters and pedlars used it as part of a route between the Highlands and Lowlands but, as its name suggests, it was used mainly by successive ministers of the parish of Lochlee and Lethnot as their way through the hills to serve the needs of their scattered flock. On this day we turned at East Knock just south of Berryhill Burn and returned over Cowie Hill. You rarely walk up here without hearing the haunting cry of the curlew. We were not disappointed. (OS Landranger Sheet 44).
The following week we were at Happas (south of Forfar); some of us for the second time within a few weeks, to do the ten miler to the tower on the Hill of Lour (750 ft). Cattle were grazing in the field beside the summit monument. Being reluctant to disturb them we stopped some twenty yards short of our goal. This was a pity because the views over the Angus glens repay this climb. A delicate mauve/blue flower bordered the paths. This led to a spirited discussion on its identity. Wild hyacinth was the preferred option but we had suggestions for bluebell (native and Spanish) and even harebell. I ended up confused. (OS Landranger Sheet 54).
I see that some wag was ejected from the Chelsea Flower Show for trying to position a garden gnome among the exhibits. Apparently the organizers are a bit sniffy about this particular piece of "vulgarity". Garden gnomes vulgar – whatever next!
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Weather for Brechin
Thursday 09 February 2012
Today
Light rain
Temperature: 3 C to 5 C
Wind Speed: 12 mph
Wind direction: South west
Tomorrow
Cloudy
Temperature: 3 C to 4 C
Wind Speed: 23 mph
Wind direction: South
